Mallorcan hospitality: Sobrasada, Sa Posicio, and San Miguels

July 21-July 24, 2012

My Spanish explorations have landed me on Mallorca. Cara has spoke of Mallorca before. The year she spent assimilating here remains one of the best experiences of her life. She has so welcomingly included me in her visit with her family with whom she developed an unbreakable bond 8 years ago.
Clara, her Spanish sister, is an embracing host. After my ferry boat ride where I am forced to endure the movie "Cars" dubbed into Italian, I arrive to hugs and kisses from a room full of twenty-something Mallorcan women and a table heaped with meats, breads cheese typical to this island, a meal called Pombole. We will party tonight, but first, a feast.

I am an eager student learning the strategic makings of this dish.
Precise instructions below. I learned quickly that the order is not to be tampered with:
Step 1: select your bread. Mallorcans have their own bread is denser than the baquettes found elsewhere.
Step 2: while squeezing a halved tomato, rub onto bread
Step 3: salt
Step 4: olive oil drizzle
(my mouth starts to water)
Step 5: select meats: jamón serrano, embutido, sobrasada, and cheeses
Step 6: devour and repeat.
Love.

Wine flows and Spanish rum sneaks onto the table and into my glass. We laugh in our attempt to converse in English, Spanish and Mallorcan (a language similar to Catalan). Cara and I teach them our dirty American humor as they do theirs.

We spill out onto the streets and head towards Sa Posicio, a mysterious artistic haven set within an old Mallorcan home near the industrial district. A long dramatic walkway, lined with trees, greets our arrival to an open-air party housed inside a castle-like mansion. Colorful Artwork plasters the walls. Each courtyard encases music with a distinct and unique Spanish flare, shifting the Ambiance with each pass under the archways. A bar that is truly unique, absolutely local, embracing the past while seamlessly melding into the present. Dancing ignites, and like no time has passed, the sky above us illuminates as it begins its daily transition to light. The sun whispers, "buenos días" as we head for home.

A view of the countryside from Villademboas

Cliffside drinks

Sunday, I am introduced to the precious neighborhoods of Palma and the quaint village of Villadembosa. This town is nestled in the lush mountainous countryside that remains virtually undeveloped since its origins noted in the white stucko buildings and tall cathedral tower. Clara decides we need one last stop before winding home on the country road without headlights. A bar set along the edge of drastic green cliffs overlooking the ocean at sunset. The land ends where the sea begins many meters below. It is on this edge that we enjoy a cocktail.

Villadembosa

We arrive back in Palma just in time to return to our beloved Sa Posicio for its Sunday night market/exposition. Local artists, massage therapists, musicians, actors, dancers and restaurants set up shop to exhibit their talents and take part in the feeling of community that resonates within the walls. As we finish an amazing meal of San Miguels (spanish beer) pita pita with salmon (really just pita, but Mallorcans double the word), when a crowd gathers for a local improv group that has begun is show. At the end of the hilarious show, we stay for one last show: a fire dancer. He turns on his boom box (circa 1998) and starts throwing and molesting his fiery batons, dropping them every few attempts. We take a step back in shock at how horrible he is.

Beaches of San Jordi

Another morning comes and Cara and I rent a car (whom we nickname Roberta) for the day and head towards the southern beaches of Es Trenc and Colonia San Jordi. Roberta and her half manual/ half automatic transmission get us there safely And back. Tomorrow is Menorca and rental cars number 2 and 3.

Clara's most beautiful dog, Rita